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Funkwagen Kfz 17/1 restoration thread
Old 04-23-2015, 12:36 PM   #1
Funksammler
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Default Funkwagen Kfz 17/1 restoration thread

I have collected all the pictures of the Kfz 17/1 Funkwagen restoration in a separate thread and added a few pictures. As work goes on I will post progress hopefully until it is all finished!

Some pictures taken before restoration. The vehicle was recovered from Norway where unfortunately it had been left to rot outside for many years. Essentially the woodwork has rotted away leaving the chassis and running gear. Some woodwork (mainly from the lower parts of the body) could fortunately be recovered serving as patterns:

 photo bef1_zps37832569.jpg

 photo bef2_zps542a7cbe.jpg

 photo bef3_zps5c5fae95.jpg

First job was to pull the chassis apart and restore each bit separately:

 photo DSC04575_zpsrmqvozu2.jpg

 photo DSC01394_zpsr2yyilcu.jpg

 photo DSC01397_zpse5hsargr.jpg

The engine originally in the car needed a little bit of work too!

 photo DSC01391_zpsecpa2v9d.jpg

Fortunately I was able of obtain a new engine complete with gearbox and clutch housing (which was missing from my wreck). The new engine was essentially complete but was given a good check. It transpired that the main bearings needed replacing, other than that it was in good condition:

 photo DSC00184_zpspgugnl6n.jpg

In the mean time work on the body was progressing in Germany. Based on surviving bits of woodwork, measurements taken of surviving bodywork in Norway and another bodywork restoration all new timber was used. Analysing the original timber from several vehicles we found that mainly ash and beech were used, since it is harder wearing we decided to use mainly beech:

 photo DSC00159_zpsnvotkm7u.jpg

Chassis coming together:

 photo DSC05793_zpsefe0078b.jpg

 photo DSC05797_zps3f631935.jpg

 photo DSC05798_zps0d4db254.jpg

 photo DSC05805_zps2f4f6111.jpg

Fitting the body to the chassis. At this point many mistakes made during the inital fabrication of the body had to be rectified to ensure a proper fit of the body to the chassis. Here much work has already been done, the floor has been completely rebuild as per original and the main bulkheads have been fitted. Already the body has a significant stiffness, this will later increase when the skin panels will be fitted:

 photo DSC06635_zps98df45fa.jpg

 photo DSC06636_zpsd676b35a.jpg

 photo DSC06638_zpscccc6479.jpg

 photo DSC06641_zpseb8594b8.jpg

 photo DSC06644_zpsdc6f0d78.jpg

 photo DSC06645_zps8c302694.jpg

Reskinning in progress. The outer skin is made of Pertninax ("Hartpapier") plate. All materials on the Funkwagen version are non-conductive to ensure that no parasitic currents can flow while transmitting. All larger metal parts like mudguards are bonded to the chassis, which forms an "earth plane". Most plates had to be recut to ensure an accurate fit, a noisy and dusty job. At this point the doors are also roughly fitted, much work is still needed before they fit properly:

 photo DSC07236_zps45ffmc2h.jpg

 photo DSC07239_zpssn7njjkq.jpg

 photo DSC07238_zpshfxmipe6.jpg

That is it for now... Progress is slow but steady. For example to measure, cut, drill and fit a single Pertinax panel is about half a day's work. Measuring takes a lot of time but is essential to ensure a proper fit. Each screw is located exactly as per the original although one compromise I have made is the use of stainless screws. It is amazing how quickly screws start the rust after which it becomes impossible to remove them without damaging the wood.

regards,

Funksammler
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Old 04-23-2015, 02:24 PM   #2
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Is that a Horch V8 engine?
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Old 04-23-2015, 02:44 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Satcong101 View Post
Is that a Horch V8 engine?
It is indeed!

regards,

Funksammler
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Old 04-23-2015, 03:08 PM   #4
Etienne B.
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Hi,

This is gonna be another great thread ! Nice to see this funkwagen again and the progress you've made
Stilll planning on painting in ''tropical'' colour ?

Regards,

Etienne
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Old 04-23-2015, 04:05 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Funksammler View Post
It is indeed!

regards,

Funksammler
Ah! Knowing you have one could be very handy for my website.....

www.sdkfz222.com

Best wishes Simon.
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Old 04-24-2015, 11:34 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Etienne B. View Post
Hi,

This is gonna be another great thread ! Nice to see this funkwagen again and the progress you've made
Stilll planning on painting in ''tropical'' colour ?

Regards,

Etienne
I am indeed planning to spray it late war ordance yellow. I have a nice orignally marked bootlid in that colour. I may add a thin green camo overspray.

Originally all Kfz17's based on the "Mittlere Einheits Fahrgestell" left the factory painted grey as the production run finished in 1942 before the ordnance tan factory finish was introduced.

Those surviving into the second half of the war where often repainted at ordnance depots or in the field. Here is a nice shot of a freshly repainted Kfz 17, either in Africa Korps yellow or in late war ordnance tan. The original grey colour remains on the internal surfaces of the bootlid and the doors, providing a nice contrast. Mine will be sprayed in the same way, grey chassis and inside surfaces, yellow on the outside. Note how they oversprayed the tyres (I think I will do a neater job!).

 photo kfz17 rear_zpsuvnadbym.jpg

regards,

Funksammler
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Old 04-24-2015, 12:35 PM   #7
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Outstanding, great to see how it progresses. Super impressive work all the way around.

Scott
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Old 04-27-2015, 02:09 PM   #8
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Another week, and a lot of work done again. The changes may probably look minor, but a lot of detail had to be attended to.

My first focus was on the doors, first new innner door skins had to be cut. Before I could fit those, I had to install the door stoppers into the door. The stoppers limit how far the door can swing open and prevent them from getting damaged:

 photo DSC07251_zpsov9pqrnf.jpg

In order to fit the door stopper, the door frame and the door post had to be machined and drilled to fit the parts. The metal bar slides through a metal bracked fitted inside the door and has a rubber stop on the end for a "soft landing". It all has to be fitted so that it neatly fits between the door skins. With the stopper fitted, the inner skin could be fitted:

 photo DSC07250_zpse4xl4fav.jpg

This is the commander's seat in the front right. His door has a special recess to hold a bracket for a fold-out table. I was experimenting a bit with coatings and primer. The pertinax plates are very smooth and require a special primer to hold paint. The grey paint is a grey undercoat that I use on all the wood sprayed on top of the pertinax primer. It is actually still a bit on the cold side for paint work so it is difficult to keep the paint from running on this smooth surface. Not a big problem here as the recess will be invisible once the table is fitted, but it gives me a nice area to test that if coating adheres properly to the pertinax. So for, each door is held together with more than 70 screws!

After the doors were done, all the plates were removed from the body so I could apply a grey undercoat to the woodwork:

 photo DSC07249_zps0awwico1.jpg

All the original bodywork samples I have show the use of a grey undercoat used on the Kfz 17 rather than red oxide. Red oxide was only used on metal parts. This particular undercoat works very well on the wood, even at these low temperatures. It should protect the wood against moisture and damage for many years to come!

 photo DSC07248_zpsgkpobmv4.jpg

During the work I had a little accident with one of my spray cans, I accidentally dropped it on my driveway and a sharp stone must have pearced it as a thin fountain of paint started spraying from the bottom of the can. Not wanting to waste the paint, I ran to the area I had prepared on the left rear of the car leaving a few splatters on the left front door as I rushed by! As I could not stop spraying I covered part of the luggage compartment as well, saves me having to do it later! In any case I let the can exhaust itself and apart from some splatters and very dirty hands not harm was done!

After priming the skin plates were fixed for the final time. Note the red stripes between the lower and upper panels. This is a z-shaped metal strip that prevents any water from entering between the plates. Each plates is fixed with over 30 screws, with the doors that adds up to well over 500 screws already!

regards,

Funksammler
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Old 04-27-2015, 03:54 PM   #9
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This is such a awesome project that i just don't have any words...
So i just silently enjoy...

One question though...what the hell does she drink? Nowadays all the
gasoline (benzin) is only unleaded and octane rating is also out of those
old days standard...
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Old 04-28-2015, 04:45 AM   #10
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Superb Funkers old chap, absolutely superb!
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Old 04-28-2015, 12:14 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Val View Post
This is such a awesome project that i just don't have any words...
So i just silently enjoy...

One question though...what the hell does she drink? Nowadays all the
gasoline (benzin) is only unleaded and octane rating is also out of those
old days standard...
She drinks ordinairy unleaded petrol, and lots of it!

The engine was designed with low compression to take low octane fuels, so it has no problems with normal unleaded. You can always safely use higher octane fuels for an engine requiring lower octaine fuel, you are just wasting your money if you do so!

Fortunately the Horch V8's do not seem to suffer valve deterioration, I guess the engines are relatively unstressed, using low down torque rather than high revving power (Although I sometimes work the engine hard, especially going up hills!). Another issue to take in consideration with unleaded fuel is that the additives in the fuel can separate out when standing still for a long time, leaving a dirty ring in you fuel tank. Best to keep your tanks empty or fully filled during the winter stop.

It does about 3.5-4 km per litre on the road so two full tanks (110 litres) will get you 350-400 km far. During the war, the Kfz 17 was typically limited to 50 km/h. Apart from keeping drivetrain vibrations in check, this will also keep fuel economy reasonably. I tend to drive it a bit faster, usually up to 70 kph trying not to become too much of a slow moving roadblock while keeping the braking distances reasonable. On a long level road she will reach 100 kph but this is a scary ride!

regards,

Funksammler
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Old 04-28-2015, 02:26 PM   #12
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Can't wait to see this one being finished! Great to see how much passion is put into such a project. Respect!!!
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Old 04-28-2015, 05:45 PM   #13
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Totally outstanding! Looking forward to seeing this competed work of art!
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Old 04-29-2015, 01:35 PM   #14
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Some pictures to illustrate the use of primer on the Kfz 17. Normally these details are hidden from view but as I was working on my bootlid some of these details became visible. All the paint is original, the inside was painted panzer grey in the factory (compare with post #6!).

Where the lock has been removed you can clearly see the red oxide primer used on the metal parts:

 photo DSC07273_zpszdsr3drt.jpg

The bootlid has some wooden buffers to keep the equipment carried in the boot in place and a partial inner liner made of wood. Where one of the buffers has been removed you can see the slightly lighter grey undercoat used on the wood:

 photo DSC07272_zpsmichoit0.jpg

Since the rust is only superficial, I will preserve the paint it as it is, I will just treat it with some oil to stabilise the rust. The lid had received some damage and was rather bent, after straightening a few creases remain but since they do not interfere with the boot lid closing properly I will leave those as well.

It is nice to keep some of these details authentic!

regards,

Funksammler
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Old 04-29-2015, 02:48 PM   #15
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Don't remember, was this link here, but it has several kfz17 funkwagens.

http://www.worldwarphotos.info/galle...cks/horch-901/
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