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Luger - what do I have here ?
Old 10-08-2019, 03:24 PM   #1
rhys1
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Default Luger - what do I have here ?

Evening guys,

I've taken this Luger in a trade for some other bits and bobs. It is therefore my first one - it was very accessible in fairness. I'm in the UK so this is a current EU spec deac, but all the same it displays well in the cabinet and will be a talking point if nothing else.

Anyhow - what it is it ? I've got a few books on Lugers but am by no means an expert.

The frame, cover, safety, etc all match, the slide is marked 1920 (complete with the N for commercial). Where the 1920 has been stamped, it appears that it has been polished to 'accept' the 'new' 1920 stamp - therefore I believe it is also a WW1 item albeit with a different serial number to the frame ( it is struck through). The toggle is marked for a WW2 Mauser (complete with WA's). The right hand side of the frame appears to have the imperial markings polished out, there are imperial markings everywhere else except for the barrel and the toggle. The number on the toggle has been stuck out and has been matched to the last two numbers of the frame serial. The grips I think are walnut, are commensurate (I think) with the imperial period but are not marked. The mag has the wooden 'bottom' (excuse my nomenclature) and the mag number does not match the rest of the frame.

It also has an X above the serial number on the frame so I believe it's also been a Russian capture.

In a nutshell, I appreciate that this is a Russian capture, but is it plausible that the (WW1) frame and slide were matched and reworked in 1920 as well documented in Luger books I own ? I understand that during this period that officers were forced to purchase their own sidearms and inevitably used them during WW2. I suppose that perhaps may account for how it became captured by the Russians - tenuous but who knows. I assume at that point that the toggle would have been fitted by the Russians ? I don't know - what do you guys think ?

In the absence of the makers mark on the toggle (due to the ww2 item being fitted) am I right in thinking that the frame is an a WW1 Erfurt ? Also, on the front of the frame between the grips below the trigger guard there is a stamping of a solitary 2 (see pic). Also, at the base where the magazine is inserted there is a G on the outer face and an L and an S stamped where the magazine lug would fit (see pics).

Also, I'm also considering lightly cleaning the grips with a little Murphy's Oil Soap. I've heard that oil and dirt on grips attracts moisture which in turn kills the grips - would you do this ?

Anyhow here's some pics. Any advice / thoughts gratefully received - please go easy I'm dead new to this and doing as much as possible to learn !





















Last edited by rhys1; 10-08-2019 at 03:30 PM.
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Old 10-08-2019, 03:42 PM   #2
Johnny Peppers
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I'm not familiar with what is done to a handgun in Britain to neuter it, but your Luger appears to have been put together with bits and pieces. Some serial numbers show being X'd out and replaced. It appears to show several WWI Revisions Commission marks, which were very common on the Erfurt produced Lugers.

The 1920 is commonky seen as a Reichswehr property mark, but mostly on WWI era military small arms.

Photos are a bit too dark to make out for sure what some of the markings are.
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Old 10-08-2019, 03:49 PM   #3
rhys1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Peppers View Post
I'm not familiar with what is done to a handgun in Britain to neuter it, but your Luger appears to have been put together with bits and pieces. Some serial numbers show being X'd out and replaced. It appears to show several WWI Revisions Commission marks, which were very common on the Erfurt produced Lugers.

The 1920 is commonky seen as a Reichswehr property mark, but mostly on WWI era military small arms.

Photos are a bit too dark to make out for sure what some of the markings are.
Thanks Johnny the ‘crossed keys’ marks are EU deactivation marks, the number on the slide has been stuck out as has the number on the toggle. Both have been replaced with the number on the frame.
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Old 10-11-2019, 07:29 AM   #4
oldcorps
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The Luger was originally captured by the Russians as evidenced by the "X." Some of these were disassembled and the parts stored by type with no attempt at keeping original numbers together. Later, they were re-assembled, re-numbered, and refinished as serviceable but force-matched pistols. Good example of a weapon that fell into the hands of the Russians.
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Old 10-11-2019, 12:16 PM   #5
TP Alexander
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The toggle system marked '42' is for a WW2 Mauser.
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Old 10-11-2019, 05:49 PM   #6
wehl
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complet frankenstein pistol ,i vote the N stamp over the serial number is for commercial made weapons .as writen some muser ww2 made parts and others ww1 ...i do have seen some from Russia but this one is spectacular mismatched but still all original parts
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Old 10-17-2019, 01:35 PM   #7
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It's a Russian capture. It looks like they tossed several disassembled guns in a barrel and just started putting them together!
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Old 10-19-2019, 07:34 PM   #8
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the Crown/N was the commercial Nitro proof.
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Old 10-19-2019, 11:13 PM   #9
Rylan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhys1 View Post
Also, I'm also considering lightly cleaning the grips with a little Murphy's Oil Soap. I've heard that oil and dirt on grips attracts moisture which in turn kills the grips - would you do this ?
In regards to cleaning the grips, I'd go for it if you think it needs it. As the other's have mentioned, it's a parts gun. It's a nice display piece, couldn't hurt to clean it up a bit and enjoy it on display......... that being said, I thought I'd add, be careful taking off the grip panel on the safety side. You might've heard of the "million dollar chip", it's easy to do, take your time.
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Old 10-20-2019, 07:26 AM   #10
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I've improved the appearance and preserved my Luger grips by carefully removing them and placing them on a clean cloth over a firm surface. I then apply boiled linseed oil with a clean toothbrush and brush them with the checkering, in both directions. The amount of dirt removed is sometimes surprising and the depth of the checkering improves while the original wood finish is restored. Finally, I use a clean, dry brush and gently remove the excess linseed oil. It's best to do both sides.
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