I have recieved my emails about my radio so I will post as much informationa nd many pictures as I can:
It took me over a dozen weekends over the course of 2 years (including a tour in Iraq) and approximately $500.00 to complete. It was a fun project with many challenges to overcome. This web group was an integral part in the success of the project. I will now share my experiences building this with all those who are involved in building their own radio set.
BOXES:
I used ¼” Masonite, 1” aluminum angle and flat stock and aluminum rivets. These items can be purchased at Home Depot, Lowes and Hanson Rivet. I chose Masonite because it looks like steel when painted and sealed. The angle stock was partially mitered and wrapped around the box and covers and then riveted in place. The boxes are fairly solid when braced with the angle stock regardless of the flexibility of the Masonite.
BOX DETAILS:
�� The footman loops (purchased from ACE Hardware) bolted on using self locking nuts.
�� D-Rings fabricated from flat aluminum stock and riveted in place.
�� Latches (purchased from Blitz Bikes) riveted in place.
�� Antenna bracket fabricated from thin sheet metal riveted in place.
�� Back pad brackets fabricated from slightly thicker sheet metal riveted in place.
�� Handles bolted on using self locking nuts and large washers on the inside to prevent potential tear-out if the handle is yanked.
�� Battery Plug door assembly fabricated from thin sheet metal riveted in place sealed with metal filler (purchased from ACE Hardware) as well as all other joints.
�� Shelves and compartments fabricated from Masonite and angle stock riveted in place.
�� Battery plug holder fabricated from wood (with Masonite glued to the front) and a copper connector fitting mounted in the center.
ANTENNA:
�� Resin base (purchase from Brad Blondett) reinforced with a threaded rod through the long axis connected to a piece of poplar wood turned on a lathe to approximate dimensions. ½” to ¾” reducer copper fitting mounted on top to accommodate antenna sections made out of ½” copper pipe with a soldered connector fittings on each as well as a hole drilled. Connector wire is regular black electrical cord with a ¼” audio plug attached.
BACK PADS:
�� Fabricated from Masonite, foam padding, faux leather (purchased from Joann’s Crafts) sheet metal strips and aluminum rivets.
�� Shoulder straps made from post-war Austrian Y straps, removed shoulder pads, back strap attachment rivets. Use binder posts to quickly install and remove straps when necessary.
BATTERIES:
�� 90 Volt batteries fabricated from wood covered in black construction paper, label applied (see in files section) and glued and covered in Mod Podge glue. Leather strap (Czech straps purchased from Web Haus) attached to back. The battery itself is attached to the box through shelf holes with bolts anchoring into “T nuts” in the base on the battery.
�� Sammler Battery fabricated from wood covered, painted. Wire terminals are Allen bolts with the slot filled in with metal filler and painted. Leather strap (Czech straps purchased from Web Haus) attached to back. The battery itself is attached to the box through divider holes with bolts anchoring into “T nuts” in the side of the battery.
FACEPLATE:
�� Resin face plate (purchase from Brad Blondett), carefully sawed off the 5 knobs and lever, drilled holes and recessed rims for the 2 sight glasses. Drilled holes for audio jacks and knob shafts.
�� Used small hollow rods (purchased from hobby shop) to reinforce holes and glue into backs of knobs.
�� Fabricated dials out of sheet plastic (purchased from hobby shop) used copy of a graduated dial and taped to plastic dial using clear packing tape.
�� Used thread, paper and tape to place indicator line on inside of the sight glasses.
�� Installed ¼” audio jack (antenna) and 1/8” audio jacks (headphones), cut away some of the insulation to facilitate installation (purchased from Radio Shack) and glued using Krazy Glue.
�� Used a magnet mounted on the inner frame as a fastener for the battery plug with a metal washer glued to the face of the plug.
NOTES:
�� The face plate is mounted to a frame that is built into the box. Three of the four resin cast screw heads are drilled out and a hole is drilled through the plate. 3 metal bolts are screwed into “T nuts: attached to the frame to attach the plate to the box.
�� Two 1/8” audio y splitters are used one for the ipod and one for the walkie talkie. A third 1/8” audio wire with a 1/8” to 1/32” reducer plug is used for the walkie talkie.
�� Used a midland walkie talkie (purchased at Staples) that has a 1/8” and 1/32” jacks for headphones and microphones.
�� The inside of the radio box is lined with foam padding to hold the devices in place.
PAINTING & FINISHING:
�� All resin parts primed with model primer. Used Urban Gray Krylon Camo Spray Paint (now discontinued) to paint boxes, covers, faceplate, back pads, and then sealed with Krylon 2 Coat Sealer.
�� Painted dials, volt meters, and plug bar by hand with black model paint. Used white acrylic paint for text as well as a paint pen.
HEADPHONES:
�� Bought an old vintage 1950’s headset from eBay ($10.00) and replaced plug with a modern 1/8” plug (purchased from Radio Shack).
HAND MICROPHONE:
�� Resin Kit (purchase from Brad Blondett) drilled and hollowed out pieces, used small brass screws and a hangar clip to fasten it together (purchased from ACE Hardware).
�� Used an old headphone speaker as a microphone, installed a switch, wire and modern 1/8” plug (purchased from Radio Shack).
I hope this information helps! Good Luck If You Decide To Take This Mission!
P.S. My next project is to build the Folding Field Radio Table (with folding canvas stools).
Would anybody know the dimensions of the table top and leg assembly?
Reproduction Torn Fu d2
Latch sizes ?
is amazing for reenactment best regards from Chile!!
Linear Mode
